IRON

Red Maples do not do well in clay soil.  Red Oaks, or for that matter, hardly any oaks, do well in clay soil.  Birches, Lindens and sugar gums do not do well in clay soil.  Yet, as you drive around in Denver you’ll see many beautiful, fully mature red maple and oak trees.  They are simply stunning in the fall.  But the soil in Denver, is very different than the soil 30 miles north in Brighton.  Parts of Brighton is deep sand and the water soaks through like a sieve; and other parts are clay, like my property.

There’s something about clay soil that captures the iron and binds it within the soil, making it unavailable for the plant/tree.  I didn’t know that when we bought our first round of trees for the property: 3 red maples, 3 sugar gums, 3 white birches, 2 lindens, and 4 oaks (2 northern red, 1 Shingle and one burr).  By the 3rd year (2009) 11 of those first 16 trees were dead or dying from a serious case of iron chlorosis, iron deficiency.

Red maple with iron chlorosis

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By fall of 2010 the tree south side maples were dead.  We pulled them out and planted three more red maples.  I REALLY wanted that red on the south berm.  We added iron to the soil when they were planted and added iron twice a year in the deep root fertilization.  By 2012 they were fading, so we added iron liquid fertilizer to the area around the tree every other month.  By 2014, all three were dead, along all the oaks but the Red Northern on the north berm, 1 of the birch trees, and 1 of the sweet gums (however, the sweet gum is alive, but has not grown a single inch in 5 years).

I had to admit defeat.  This was a costly lesson.  Don’t fight the Mother.  She has her ways, and the ways are set.

Misc. 2009

Red Maple and Sumac

Fall color on the south berm.

Tulips under the catalpa. I hung colored eggs, with blessings in them, on the catalpa tree to welcome in the spring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

My good friend Panayoti Kelaidis gifted me 3 of these beautiful African Sages 20 years ago, for my Aurora Colorado garden.  I divided them and took them with me to our new home in Brighton.  They are growing well, even in this crappy soil.

North patio African sage garden
Natural, un-irrigated grass over the leach field.

We amended the soil and added drought resistant, natural prairie grasses over the leach field.  This area gets no extra water other than what leaches out into the field.

 

 

Willow tree

I

LOVE

this

big

Willow.  I have always wanted a willow tree, they are so romantic.  There are only a couple varieties that grow well in Colorado in not planted b a body of water.   I bought this one from Home Depot.  The tag said that it would do well in drought conditions so I thought I would give it a try.   So far, soo lovely!

The herb garden

There’s still color and lots of green growth in the wild flower garden (top left), the green in the leach field is grass (center), all the rest of it is mowed weeds!  We’ve got a long way to go.

Low hanging fruit

2-5-2019: The orchard is almost always in need of one thing or another: fertilizer, weeding, oil spray, bird distraction, netting, picking, checking and/or treating for blight or other diseases, and pruning.  Late winter is the time to prune.

Apple tree before pruning

Last year we had a bumper crop of fruit.  It took me 2 solid months to get it all canned.  But we left fruit on the top branches of the Big apple tree and the tallest pear tree.  These are two of the original trees in the orchard that have made it through snap freezes, irrigation failures and rabbit feasting.  They have both been pruned back once before, and then there was an attack of fire blight.  After pruning out the blighted branches I left the trees to recover.  That was 2016.  Then they put on quite a bit of height and fruited in 2018.  Time for another hard prune.

Apple tree after pruning

A hard prune on a fruit tree means it probably won’t yield fruit again for 2 – 3 years.  It’s a sacrifice that needs to be made for the health of the tree, and to keep it from getting so tall that it can’t be fully harvested.  I’m not willing to drag out a ladder any taller than 8 feet.  So that means my trees can’t be taller than 12′.  So, enough said – before and after pictures!

Pear tree, after pruning (no before pic)

It hurts to be short

Tuesday – February 5, 2019.  Monday was 60 degrees, but really windy, today it’s a high of 50 degrees and tomorrow is supposed to be maybe 30 degrees tops.  So I decided to take advantage of the one moderate day we’re going to have this week, and start on the spring landscaping maintenance.

One of the important things that needs to get done before it warms up too much is tree pruning.  So I tackled the Russian Olives and Locusts in the Garden of Pain, with help from my landscape guy, Jester (of Nadurra Gardens https://www.facebook.com/nadurragardens/.)

Garden of Pain, after pruning, looking west

I chose to plant Russian Olives and  Locusts in the Garden of Pain for two reasons: 1) they were free; all 6 of the trees in this garden grew from seed on the south berm, probably having come in with the mulch; and 2) they are thorny, really thorny.  These two varieties are naturally very large trees, reaching at least 30 x 40′ at maturity.  When I transplanted them from the south berm they were about 3′ high.  Immediately after planting I cut them in half; three years later I pruned them down by half again, and today I pruned them down to 6′ tall – depending on the tree, that’s 40-60%.

I want the trees in the Garden of Pain to be no taller than 12′, so they will need regular pruning.  Here are some pictures of the process, as well as some before and after shots.

Russian Olive #2

Russian Olive, about 17′ tall, brought down to 6′.   To prune, I first had Jester saw off the main limbs down to 6′.  These limbs were between 2 and 4″ in diameter. This is the hardest part.  It hurts me to see it, all that work to grow cut away.  It hurts the tree too – they are confused.

Russian Olive pruning process step 1

 

But I told these trees when I planted them, that they would always be kept short, and would not be allowed to reach their natural height.  I had a conversation with my trees during the pruning process to reassure them that everything will be ok, and that I am not cutting them all the way down or killing them, and that they are valued and loved and serve a special purpose here in the Garden of Pain.

Next you remove any crossing, redundant or water sprouting branches.  Crossing means the branch is cross horizontally through the tree branches, rather than outward.  Redundant means that there are two branches coming out of the same side of the trunk, growing outward in the same direction, or sitting too close to one another.  Water spouts refers to branches that are growing straight up from the outward moving, horizontal branch.

Close up, Russian olive, after interior crossing branches removed
Close up, Russian olive, after interior crossing branches removed

After pruning, 6′ tall.

Garden of Pain, Russian Olive #2
Locust #1
Garden of Pain, after pruning, Locust #1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Garden of Pain, after pruning, Locust #3
Locust #3

 

 

 

 

 

 

Garden of Pain, after pruning, Locust #2
Locust #2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Russian Olive #1, after pruning (I didn’t get a before picture on this tree – forgot)
The aftermath

Everything in the Garden of Pain is thorny!

Close up of Locust and Russian Olive tree thorns
Garden of Pain, after pruning, looking east

Front Yard 2009

The front of the property is really starting to fill out.  It finally looks like something, no more mud, no more dirt piles.

The Rose garden really did well this first year. Beautiful color.

The rose garden grew really well for their first year.  They are all between 18 and 24″ high, with nice blooms.

Rose garden, looking southAlthough they’re higher than the privet hedge which surrounds them, the hedges are big enough that you can tell what they’re supposed to be.  And they’ll eventually be 3-4′ high.  They’ve got a long way to grow yet, but so far so good.

Rose garden

The willow garden in the background is also flourishing, and the spruce has put on 3′ in height.

Rose garden

I love how I got the lines on the hedges absolutely straight!  You keep laughing at me my lovely neighbors – there’s a method to my madness!

Privet hedge is growing!

And Aunt Judy’s orange daylilies are beautiful.  In the spring there are tulips in front, and in the fall the row of Mums blooms in a brilliant hot pink.

South side of driveway

 

 

 

 

North side of driveway

Fun with rocks

After my 25 tons of boulders sat on the dirt piles in the front of the house for 2 years, I finally was able to add the rest of the rip rap to complete the berms, another 25 tons of rock!

South Rock Berm, in progress

Don’t know why, but I only took this one picture of the south side.  It looks pretty similar to the north side though.  I like things matchy matchy.

 

 

North rock berm, looking south/west from the ditch
North rock berm in progress

 

 

 

 

 

North rock berm with new dwarf evergreen shrubs and native xeric rose
North rock berm

Bulbs and Tubers

I spent a lot of time on my hands and knees last fall planting bulbs and tubers.  I planted tulips in the front yard:

Tulips in front of the day lily garden, south side

I planted them around the cupola,

Tulips around the cupola

 

 

 

 

and around the womb of the earth.

Tulips around the womb of the earth

I planted them in patches all over the north and south berms.

Since the tulips don’t bloom all summer long, I planted twinkles and drumsticks and kaleidoscope lilies.

 

Little twinkles come in yellow, pink and white

Drumstick alium, bloom in May

Kaleidoscope lily mix

Kaleidoscope lily mix

Kaleidoscope lily mix

Kaleidoscope lily mix

Kaleidoscope lily mix

And added some purple Iris to Mom’s yellow ones, just for fun.

Purple and yellow Iris

 

The beauty of winter

Three massive cottonwood trees. These trees are growing at the far west end of the subdivision, just to the south of the reservoir pond (where I imagine they’re pulling their water from). They are glorious covered in snow!
North Blue Spruce
Purple ash

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grass in a pot
Willow Garden, birds love the feeders

 

 

 

 

 

weeping willow, soo magical, I LOVE this tree

Let there be butterflies!

Among the flowers I dug out of my Aurora garden were Shasta daisies, coral sedum, maximillian sun flowers, bergamot, sunset hyssop and agastache.  I knew the 12 or 15 pots of perennials I managed to divide from that garden, would not go far in my new garden in Brighton.

With 2 acres, I can plant 20 plants and you would hardly notice.  But it was a start.   I propped up a steel piano harp in the middle.  I purchased 4 white pom pom bushes and placed them opposite the drainage trench.  Eventually, I plan to put a pathway between the four shrubs, leading into the butterfly garden.

This is not the best picture, but looking to the northeast over the herb garden, you can see the beginnings of what will be a beautiful butterfly haven.

The view of the new butterfly garden space being marked out, viewed from over the herb garden fence. Sorry – this picture is really blurry.

You can also see progress and growth of the oak, birch and Canadian red cherry trees in front of the north berm, and the Austrian black pines on top of the berm.  This year we also purchased a couple of bristle cone pines. I planted some shrubs as well, but they’re small and it’s hard to see them.

Adding color

 

Noodle garden, spring 2008

Daffodils and tulips

Catalpa, Spring 2008

 

 

 

 

 

White tulips planted under the catalpa

Korean Lilacs in bloom
Rosa Rugosa and white alium
Soo much going on in the willow garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The willow garden is really coming along.  I planted dwarf stella ‘d oro yellow daylilies at the edge of the rock border, and more of Aunt Judy’s giant orange day lilies behind those.  Dark purple salvia, and Russian sage.

Big improvements in the willow garden

The 3 sand cherry shrubs are filling out nicely, and the willows have reached about 3 and a half feet tall.  Brian bought a second bird feeder and I painted it to match the first one.  I added Golden Spirea, mother’s wort and lovage herbs (because they are prolific and take up space), and two beds of my Mother’s yellow and white Iris.

Mom’s yellow Iris
I had no idea catalpa blooms were so huge, fragrant, and beautiful

I have no idea what the name of this Iris is.

Anyone?

 

 

 

 

Aunt Judy’s day lilies – south bed

Waiting for a wabbit
the purple ash has beautiful fall color
Red Maple and Sumac